![]() ![]() If we can't then we will try to do some basic testing but since you mentioned the scan tool, this will be the easiest way.įeel free to get a video of the screen when this happens on these sensors rather then trying to write them all down. Let's start with monitoring live data if possible and go from there. It is when you finally come to a stop or just before it that the engine stalls. As long as the vehicle is still moving it keeps running. Think of this as a manual transmission and when you come to a stop with it in gear and you don't push the clutch. Also when you cleaned the IAC we need to probably replace this depending on what we find.Ī torque converter can cause the vehicle to stall when coming to a stop but not when it is just idling. I understand it appears you replaced it when you say throttle body sensor. IF it is indeed bad compression, you will have to buy new piston rings and have your cylinders re-honed.or just do a straight up engine swap (which would likely be MUCH easier).Does your snap on tool monitor live data? Hopefully it does so we can monitor the throttle position sensor when this is happening. You also typically want cylinders to be within about 10-15psi of each other. From what I could find the BARE minimum compression for engines in general is 90 psi.but it may be more or less for your engine. If the problem isnt your body control module, fuel pump, injectors, nor ignition. Test the compression of each cylinder per the tool instructions and note the compression of each cylinder. 2005 Tahoe starts but dies straight away. To determine if it is bad rings/cylinders, go to a mechanic or go buy a compression tester (maybe Auto-Zone or other auto stores rent them?). Chevrolet Tahoe fuse box diagrams change across years, pick the right year of your. Enough blow-by will eventually mean that each stroke is not powerful enough to maintain engine rotation. Remove the fuse for the remote start system and see if the battery. As the engine heats up the ring-cylinder mate becomes looser so that the engine will run smoother and easier.but if there is too much wear the combustion gases will begin to blow by the ring-cylinder surfaces and will cause each stroke to lose power. While cold, the ring-cylinder mate is tight, keeping the combustion gasses from blowing by and allowing the engine to run. After too much wear (IE if you have defects, overheated the car, neglected oil changes, bad combustion over time etc etc etc) the piston rings and cylinders will not mate and seal properly causing low compression and blow-by. Unfortunately this is TYPICALLY the symptoms of compression loss. If the engine starts right back up after stalling, the likely cause is low fuel volume delivery because of a weak pump. The engine may start and idle fine, but run out of power or even stall at highway speeds. The alternator didnt solve low idle issue or the stalling. Even if the pump is generating normal pressure at idle, it may not deliver adequate flow at higher engine speeds. Currently brand new OEM alternator from Toyota installed. ![]() The engine stalling out completely tonight but tomorrow it may run just fine or idle just under 650 RPM. Put water in it but I still have the issue of the motor stalling when warm. But if I keep enough pressure on the throttle it will rev without issue. Will start right back up, because the battery somehow has enough cranking amps. Once warm idles a bit and decreases to 0 RPM. Went from low idling to the idle getting too low to keep the battery charged to the above mentioned issue. ![]()
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